How to Download, Fix, Fit and Print cards using Photoshop including HOLOS and GOLD/SILVER lettering

[PakstraX]

In this tutorial, you'll learn how to re-size, fix and fit cards in to a page, and ready them for printing in Photoshop.

 

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1. Downloading

2. Fixing

- 2.1. Rotation

- 2.2. Size

- 2.3. Lack of Color

- 2.4. RGB/CMYK

- 2.5. Clearing Spots

- - 2.5.1. Clone Stamp Tool

- - 2.5.2. Healing Brush

3. Fitting

4. Preparation for printing

5. Printing

- 5.1. Choice of paper

- 5.2. Foils, Gold / Silver - lettering

6. Cutting

7. Finesse (only for perfectionists)

- 7.1. Back-sides

- 7.2. Holographic stamp

- 7.3. Angling

8. Additional Information

- 8.1. Shortcuts - Yes, there are shortcuts! - NEW

9. Services - NEW

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1. Downloading

 

When you make a list of cards you want to print, you should download the scans or better yet, scan the cards yourself. If you chose to download the scans, you should download the best possible quality scans. I personally recommend yugioh.wikia.com. The wikia has one of the best quality scans you'll find on net, and without any stamps.

 

[spoiler=YuGiOh.wikia]

To download the picture just click on the picture in the window you have, or if you don't want the picture you have in the window, you can scroll a bit down, and click on "Gallery". You should get a list of thumbnail pictures to chose from.
When you want to download the picture you want, just right-click on it and chose "Save Image As..." or "Save Image..."

 

 

 

2. Fixing

 

There are 3+ ways you can open your cards in Photoshop:

 

1) Open Photoshop. Go to "Open" under "File" or just press Ctrl + O* or just double-click on the gray background. Go to the folder containing the pictures and select the cards you want to print.

2) Open Photoshop. Go to the folder containing the cards, select what cards you want to print and click-drag them to Photoshop.

3) Right-click the photo you want to open and select "Open with" > "Photoshop"

 

* Note: Shortcut for "Open" is Ctrl + O, and not Ctrl + 0 (zero)

 

- 2.1. After you opened the cards you wanted, you'll notice that may be rotated a bit. The easiest way to correct this is to use the "Ruler Tool". The "Ruler Tool" is located in the same square as the "Eyedropper Tool". To change it to "Ruler Tool" left-click-hold on it and chose it from the drop menu that will appear.

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/3121/ruler.jpg' alt='ruler.jpg'>

 

 

 

Click-drag over the cards edge.

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

Afterwords, go to "Image" > "Rotate Canvas" > "Arbitrary..." and click "OK".

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

This will set your scan strait.

- Then just crop the image with "Crop Tool" (click-drag the selection, you can modify it through moving the squares located at each side and angle - first column, 3rd row)

 

- 2.2. The size of a Yu-Gi-Oh! card is 6cm x 8,7cm*. To change the size of the card, just right-click on the title bar of the image's window and select "Image Size" and set is to the right size, make sure that "Constrain Proportions" is checked. Set the resolution to 300 dpi (dots per inch - "pixels/inch").

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

Most likely, you'll won't be able to set it to the correct size. The reason for this is the cropped image doesn't have the proportions you desire. To correct this, right-click image's title bar, and go to "Canvas Size". There you can change the size to 6cm x 8,7cm. Make sure that you don't expand the image anywhere, and just shrink it.

 

The whole process so far should look like this:

 

[spoiler=The Process]

Starting image:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

* Note: Some computers use periods (.) and not commas (,). This is because of the choice of regional and language settings. You can change it from period (.), which is by default, to comma (,) using the "Regional and Language Options" in "Control Panel", under "Formats" and via verse.

 

- 2.3. Some images you download may lack in color. This is usually caused by the lack of black and gray tones. To fix this, go to "Image" > "Adjustments" > "Levels..." or just Ctrl + L. By moving the black, gray and white arrows, adjust the image to your liking.

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

- 2.4. Some printers work in RGB (Red-Green-Blue) system and some in CMYK (Cyan-Magenta-Yellow-Black). Most of the professional ones use CMYK, but can also work just fine in RGB color. It's best you ask the printer's owner(s) what to use. If you need to change from RGB to CMYK or via verse, go to "Image" > "Mode" > "RGB Color" or "CMYK Color".

 

- 2.5. When you finished with the raw formatting of the image, you may want to "clean" it. During scanning or printing of the original cards, the card could get spots of, usually black or white paint. To remove them you can use several tools, but "Cloning Stamp", "Healing Brush" and "Spot Healing Brush" are 3 of the best.

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

- - 2.5.1. Coning Stamp

It is located in the 1st column, 5th from the top. To use it, first you need to take a sample from elsewhere from the image. As "Clone Stamp", literally clones the sample to where you click, it's best if the color of the sample and texture are the same. To take a sample, hold Alt and click on the desired sample location. To clone the sample, just left-click and paint.

- - 2.5.2. Healing Brush

"Healing Brush" and "Spot Healing Brush" and meant to "heal" scars and spots on faces, but in this case, you can use them to clean your card. To use any of the two tools, first you need to take a sample. The sample need to have the same texture as the location you want to heal. To take the sample, hold Alt and click. When using the "Healing" tools, be sure not to heal between two areas of different color, as the tool will mix them.

 

When you are done with this part for every card you want to print proceed to the next chapter.

 

* Note: Sub-chapters: 2.3., 2.4., 2.5., 2.5.1., 2.5.2. are not obligatory, you CAN skip them.

 

3. Fitting

 

First, make a new document (File>New or Ctrl+N). Chose the size of the paper you'll be printing on. If it's an internationally known format you can find it under "International Paper".

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

Most likely it will be A3 (297x420 mm). You'll find it under "Size", along with other international paper sizes (A5, A4, ... ,C5, C4). But there's also SRA3, which is a bit bigger (320x450 mm). If you can find it, you would be able to print 23 cards on it without having to shrink them.

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

Most cards you can fit on A3 is 19. If you scale down the cards a bit (5,9cm x 8,56cm) you'll be able to fit 23. Arrange them as shown in the screenshot bellow.

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

4. Preparation for printing

 

To prepare the A3 you have for printing, first you must get rid of all the access background you have. Crop it as shown in the screenshot bellow. You must take into consideration that not many printers can print on the whole page. Most of them have 0,5cm margins on all sides.

 

[spoiler=Screenshot]

 

 

 

5. Printing

 

When printing, always ask the manager to show you what kinds of papers does he have. The choice of paper is crucial. If you chose the wrong kind, you may end up having badly printed cards.

 

- 5.1. The best paper to print your cards on is "Extra Heavyweight" paper (250g/m2 and up). The best prints are on 280g paper.

 

- 5.2. Foils can be made using a special kind of papers. Printing your cards on already shiny papers will make the shiny. There are many types of foiled papers, some of them are regular, some have holographic patters and some are not shiny but change color from different angles. To get those kinds of paper you'll have to find a store or a printing office that has them. I googled and found this (click here).

Gold lettering can be made using gold foil. The type of making them stick varies. I personally used, probably most common type, gold foil that is applied by pressure and temperature, sticking to a black suffice. The results aren't spectacular, but are sufficient.

 

This is how my holos turned out:

 

6. Cutting

 

To cut your cards, it's best you use a scalpel, hard ruler and a thick piece of glass. Scalpels are very sharp, so be extremely careful using them (earned a big scar from one of those). Use the ruler to make a path for the scalpel, and use the glass to cut on (using anything else, will ether damage that what you use or damage the cards you cut).

If the store you print in has it, you may also use the stationary cutting press.

 

7. Finesse

 

Only thing left now between your card, and an original one is the finesse.

 

- 7.1. You can print the back-sides relatively easily. Just make sure that when fit the back sides, they make a mirror image of the front, and if you are doing the printing yourself, to fit the paper into the tray with their printed sides facing the right way (some printers flip the paper as it goes through, and some do it twice).

 

- 7.2. The holographic stamp can be faked by using almost any other holographic paper or stamp. Just cut it to fit the one on the card.

There are also factories that makes them. I thing a meter of holographic stamps costs around 20$ or less. That's between 1000 and 2000 stamps.

The third and probably the easiest way to do it is to cut out the originals from cards you will never use. I can almost guarantee you'll find someone who would sell you like a thousand commons for a few bucks.

 

- 7.3. Angling, (I'm not sure what it's really called) is the process where you round the angles of the card. There are special presses for that. They can be bought very cheaply, but I bet that you'll find one at the printer's.

The other way is to do it using scissors or by making you own press. You can make a press using a piece of sheet metal and a hammer or something heavy. Just bend the metal into a shape of a card or just the angle, and use the hammer to cut the access of.

 

8. Additional Information

 

Printing papers come in various sizes. Before you start fitting your cards into the blank, you should know the size of the paper you'll be printing on.

As I said before, the most common is the A3, but there's also the A4, Bs and Cs. Those aside, there are also some more unconventional but common, like SRA3 and sheet papers.

 

Print area is different for almost every manufacturer. It's usually 5mm around the edge of the largest paper you can feed it. But it's best that you make the margins bigger (10mm).

 

Papers don't just vary in size, they also vary in weight, texture, components, gloss, color...

When choosing the paper, chose the heaviest as they are the strongest. Texture and making components can also attribute to strength.

There are some 10 of the most common paper wights:

• 70g (g/m2) - used by household printers
  
• 85g - used by household printers
  
• 90g - used by household printers
  
• 120g
  
• 150g
  
• 200g
  
• 220g
  
• 250g
  
• 280g
  
• 300g
  

You can use any weight from the 220 and up.

 

Colored paper can also make your cards better. Lightly yellowed papers can bring out the color of the card, or anything you print for that matter.

 

There are also, as I mentioned before, holographic papers. They are shiny from the beginning and stay shiny after it has been printed on. The one I use produces the factory called James Cooper, I think, from England. Not that I want to promote anyone, just so if you want to buy, you could know at least one manufacturer.

 

- 8.1. Referring to the whole process so far, you would have to get bored doing the same thing over and over, but luckily for everyone, the IS a shortcut! Using "Actions" you can mass produce.

 

This is how you make an "Action":

 

[spoiler=Step 1][align=center]

 

First, you must create a new set for you actions to be in. This is done, as you may see in the sreenshot above, by clicking on the "Create a new Set" button in the "Actions" panel.[/align]

 

 

 

[spoiler=Step 2][align=center]

 

Then you must name the new set and select it to apply the actions to it.[/align]

 

 

 

[spoiler=Step 3][align=center]

 

Create a new action. Name it, and give it a function key, so the process would be easier - clicking 1 button, or a combination of up to 3 button. The new action will be automatically set on the Record.[/align]

 

 

 

[spoiler=Step 4][align=center]

 

Record the actions you want it to do. For this, you must have the card preopened*. Do 2.2. - Image Size and Canvas Size. The whole time Record must be turned on. When you're finished with the actions you want the new action to do, just click on stop (square button, to the left of "record", which is left to "play", which is left to "create new set". [/align]

 

*Note: If you haven't got a preopened card, you should stop the action by clicking on the "stop" button, and when you open a card, click on the "record" button.

 

 

 

9. Services

 

For those who don't want to bother with the above, there's is an easier way to get the proxies they want. PM me with the service you'd like.

 

• In silico (in electronic form)
  
  1. Fixing (2.1. and 2.2.) - 10 pts/card
     
  2. Fixing (2.) - 20 pts/card
     
  3. Fitting (3. and 4.) - 50 pts/sheet (A4, A3, SRA3...)
     

   

  • In vivo (in real life)
    
    1. Regular (non-holo, no extras) - 15 units/card
       
    2. Duel Terminal (DT holo, no extras) - 75 units/card
       
    3. Holo (Super Rare holo, no extras) - 125 units/card

  • Extras (addition to in vivo)
    
    1. Back-sides - 15 units/cards
       
    2. Holographic stamp
       
       • from a real card - 50 units/card
         
       • other - 20 units/card

    [*]Angling - 10 units/card

Exchange Rates

 

1 EMU = 90 units

1 USD = 60 units

1 AUD = 50 units

1 GBP = 100 units

1 CAD = 60 units

 

Postal services are not included in the cost.

 

Payment methods

 

I accept payment only through Western Union or by delivery.

 

Discount

 

Discount is available only to resident of Serbia. For more information see Cenovnik.txt

 

Also, there will be a big holiday discount from 15th of December to the 10th of January. For more information see Proxy.txt

 

 

This is it for now, hope it helped!

[Skippy Canoe]

You measured a piece of skin that got cut off from you? -_-

 

Pretty cool, though I won't use it. ^_^

[PakstraX]

Yes, I did... It's a pretty big scar. More like a badge of something, something honor and glory. :D

 

And did you mean that you wouldn't use photoshop or the tutorial.

 

I tried to simplify the process as much as I could. Photoshop cannot be learned in a day you know. Though when you get a hang of it, you can make anything.

[Skippy Canoe]

Lol! No, I just wouldn't print cards. I use Photoshop, though.

[Enma Ai]

Don't you fond it easier to Go into Microsoft Office Word, Paste the Pic, Resize it appropriately and Print instead of this...?

[jkkohles]

can you help me on how to make monsters? pm me.

[♥ ЅϯᵲåώӀӞ℮ᴙʀɣ−ɴɨɨ−ƈħåɴ ♥]

Your foil cards are so illegally legal ^_~.

 

Where do you order your foil paper from?

[PakstraX]

I use the one in the office. I'll post you the details later, when I find out the name of the company that makes it...

---

Don't you fond it easier to Go into Microsoft Office Word' date=' Paste the Pic, Resize it appropriately and Print instead of this...?

[/quote']

 

Yes you could do that, but MS Office works on 72 dpi. If you want an non blur image, you'll use a program like Photoshop...

[archie17]

section 2.2 sizing doesn't work right, could you explain it with better detail

[PakstraX]

OK, I'll add a ScreenShot(s)

---

done

---

some rep would be nice :|

[archie17]

where you show that you put "8,74" when I do it doesn't allow commas to be inputted, just periods (.) only. so the above doesn't work.

[♥ ЅϯᵲåώӀӞ℮ᴙʀɣ−ɴɨɨ−ƈħåɴ ♥]

where you show that you put "8' date='74" when I do it doesn't allow commas to be inputted, just periods (.) only. so the above doesn't work.

[/quote']

 

Just write a decimal point. Some computers have been configured to treat commas as periods. Different countries work differently.

 

It's fine.

 

And on a side note: You still haven't told me where you order foil paper yet =P.

[PakstraX]

Ohh, yea, I forgot about that. I'll be printing something soon, so I'll get you the info by then (most likely in a day or two)

[Phœnīcius Infīnius VII]

Lov datut. Thanks 4 it.

[piplup_fan2]

Awesome tutorial +rep for u :P also i subbed to you on youtube but like uhh... ♥ ЅϯᵲåώӀӞ℮ᴙʀɣ−ɴɨɨ−ƈħåɴ ♥ asked :P what brand of paper are you using i personally want to know what paper for the cards that look super rare the whole way thought AND the ones that look secret rare the whole way through thanks in advance :P.

[PakstraX]

I'll post the brand in 1 to 2 hours. I was just going to the Printer's, so I'll ask him... Thanks for rep, really appreciated! :D

[PakstraX]

updated with the name of the company - it's James Cooper (51% sure)

[piplup_fan2]

i googled james cooper and it didnt have the results T_T but it dont matter to me but do you mean that you go to a place like minuteman press and just ask for them to print on holo paper or something?

[PakstraX]

Well, you can do that... if you want to do it the easy way... :D

[piplup_fan2]

sweet but while waiting for your post i got a free printer :P

[PakstraX]

Bumpedy Bump Bump Bump

[PakstraX]

bump

[JG.]

OMG. Nuff said.

[Bull3tM0nk3y]

Can you make a GIMP version of this? I don't want to figure out the math, and covert it from PS to GIMP.

[PakstraX]

I don't know GIMP